No Skid Ro-tor (Part 3)

9. Reinsert cleaned (or new if you are replacing those as well) brake pads into the caliper

(there are 2 clips holding the brake pads, use a flat head screw driver to help get them in)

10. Reinsert caliper onto rotor so each brake pad flanks the rotor, and resecure bolt back into place behind the rotor and tighten with socket and socket wrench

11. Put wheel back on wheel bolts and screw lug nuts back on and tighten

12. Lower car back onto the ground and remove jack - you're almost done!

13. Set your torque wrench to recommended torque specs
(I set mine to 72 pounds)

14. Tighten each nut with one click* (and only one click, if you do it twice you are using twice the torque, ie. in my case it would have been 72 lbs x 2 clicks = 144 lbs).

*with my particular torque wrench, when releasing it makes a quiet click which could be confusing and alarming. Just pay attention to what you are doing and you'll be fine

15. Repeat all this with the other side. You should always replace all brake pads and rotors at the same time to keep even wear.

16. With engine still off, pump the brake pedal to set brake pads against the rotors

16. Disengage the emergency brake, turn on engine and take the car for a drive around the block. Roll your windows down and keep your radio off so you can hear any noises. You should hear nothing.

Silence is golden. Especially when it saves you about a hundred bucks.

Read part 1 here and part 2 here.